Clam Spaghetti

When I think of clam spaghetti, I don’t think of 6-8 clams neatly arranged a delicate bed of pasta with a gentle sprinkle of chopped parsley and red pepper flakes.  I think of sitting at the kid’s table in my Auntie Clare’s basement, a big plate of pasta, a pile of chopped clams swimming in butter, white wine, and parsley, with a heaping spoonful of Reggiano cheese on top.  To me, clam spaghetti is comfort food, a Superior Ave special that never fails to leave me with a fully belly and gunning for seconds, or thirds.

Every once in a while I find myself at an Italian restaurant and I see Spaghetti Alle Vongole on the menu. Nostalgic for a plate of Auntie Clare’s buttery, clammy-goodness, I’ll order it. Time after time, I find myself disappointed. I’m sorry, pretty as those clam shells are, I’d rather have the chopped, canned ones that Auntie uses. A couple times, the clams have been gritty-blech. The clam to pasta ratio is always completely out of whack, too. I want Clam Spaghetti, not a pound of spaghetti with a brief, clam opener. Sure, each plate ends with the delectable sauce to be sopped up by pieces of bread, always something to look forward to, but the main event just never seems to measure up. 

I decided to make Clam Spaghetti for S and me last night because I think we were both in the mood for/of need of some comfort food. I have been eating far too many bowls of cereal and hummus/peanut butter/carrot dinners, so it was time to cook.  S had talked about delicious smoked clams they concocted the previous weekend at the shore so I had clams and seafood on my mind. Grilling a piece of fish seemed boring and pasta is such a treat—I knew clam spaghetti would hit the spot.

Pretty Sauce

I was semi-concerned about finding canned clams at my usual haunts on my walk home from the gym. I didn’t think Whole Foods would have them, but I was pretty sure Dibruno might. I ran some recon at lunch and DiBruno did not have canned, I believe they were out of stock, but they DID have FRESH chopped clams.  I told the counter attendant I would be back.  Post-gym I picked up a pound of the chopped clams, some fresh linguine, and green onion. As disturbing as reading the register when checking out at DiBruno can be at times, the comfort theme (ie. convenience shopping) began then and there---worth it.

Fresh chopped clams!

Auntie Clare sent me her general recipe a while back. I have made it a few times since, and each time had slightly different results. I was curious to see how the fresh clams would play out in terms of adding to the flavor.  I wanted to keep it light, too.  Less buttery-goodness--- more seafood, wine, lemony-goodness!

I think the fresh clams really made this dish. We could taste the ocean.  Although I actually like the texture of the canned clams, the fresh clams were meaty and juicy and on a different level. Also, I am completely aware a real Italian would NEVER add cheese to seafood, but I just had to do it. I took a couple bites without the cheese, and they were delicious, but I threw on some handfuls of Pecorino Roman after that in honor of Auntie Clare. S, a REAL Italian, tried it with the cheese and said she enjoyed it, but it didn't need it.  Using fresh pasta, a treat, also makes a big difference. It was so light, and it soaks up the sauce in a way dry pasta wouldn't quite be able to.

Fresh pasta treat

Clammy comfort (oxymoron?)

Clam Spaghetti makes 2 hearty main course servings

1 lb fresh, chopped clams

3 tbs of butter

3 tbs of olive oil

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 tsp red pepper flakes

4 green onions, chopped (I used the whole onion, all white and green parts)

¾ cup white wine

1 cup chicken stock

~ ½ cup clam broth (I just used all the liquid that the clams were in)

Juice of one lemon

½ cup chopped parsley

Salt and pepper to taste

Fresh Spaghetti or Linguine

Drain the clams and preserve the liquid to use in the sauce. Heat 2 tbs of butter and all of the oil over med-high heat. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and allow to sauté for about a minute, careful not to burn the garlic--doing this will allow the pepper to infuse the oil and give the dish the heat it needs later.

Add the chopped green onion and sauté for 2-3 minutes until soft, and season with salt and pepper. Add the wine, the stock, the clam broth, and lemon juice and bring to a simmer.  Allow the liquid to reduce by about half, and taste it for flavor.  I often add another splash of wine or chicken stock at this point.  If the clam flavor is way too strong for you, add the chicken stock.  If you think it needs a bit more acidity, add the wine.  My Auntie says, “it will taste strong, but it works once you add the clams”. 

Add the clams and chopped parsley and let it cook for about 2 minutes. Do not overcook.  Taste the sauce again.  Like I added the chicken broth or wine earlier, I sometimes find at this point it needs the other tbs of butter or a bit more lemon juice at this point. The butter will add creaminess and the lemon sharpens the flavor.

Serve over pasta and don’t hesitate to put a bowl of grated Parmesan or Romano on the table (you never know who might like it).  

PS. Make sure you have  some crusty bread around for the sauce!

Sangria

Signature cocktails are fun for entertaining.  They can be seasonal, sentimental, or perhaps they are just the drink that has somehow become your default cocktail bar order or post-work libation.

In college, as shameful as it is to admit, my signature “cocktail” (beside BL bottles) was a Jaeger Bomb. Yup. I accumulated quite the collection of Jaeger bottles received as gifts from age 18-21. Now, my friends give it to me as a sort of gag gift (hehe, puns!).

In a post-college trip to Italy with J, I discovered Aperol.  J and I were walking around the piazza in Como in search of refreshment and could not miss the neon cocktail that graced nearly every table. We ordered 2 and the rest is history. The “Spritz” became a family favorite, and my method of not measuring anything requires that I am always the one mixing up round after round because others just don’t quite get it right and unfortunately, I can’t pass off a specific recipe. Quel dommage.

My mother’s side of the family has a variety of signature cocktails. Gin and tonics, gin martinis (always with olives/cocktail onions and a twist)---as well as jugs of fruity red sangria that make steady appearances during the summer months.   My uncle is usually the one to make it, and it always packs a punch. I don’t know at what point I transitioned from just being allowed to eat the leftover boozy fruit to actively pouring myself a glass or three---I highly doubt anyone gave me permission to upgrade my alcohol scavenger status, but as an adult, I have adopted sangria as a signature cocktail of sorts of my own.

favorite post-work libation - get it from my momma

The great thing about sangria is that it is not as fussy as some other cocktails with multiple components can be. All you need to set up is the jug of sang itself, a big spoon for scooping out the fruit, some ice, and possibly some club soda for mixing---no muddling or measuring required. I think it is served best in larger cups. I served it insmall cups last time and it was difficult to leave room for the booze, or a splash of club soda, once the ice and fruit were in the cup.

it might look a little cloudy--- do not worry!

There is a lot of bad sangria out there. I'm always wary of a non-ethnic restaurant that advertises a sangria special, and I've had few bad house party sangria experiences (typically with white sangria). I think fresh squeezed OJ makes a difference, as well as letting it sit as long as possible, overnight if you can plan far enough in advance. I always add a couple tbs of sugar, and every once in a while, a shot or two of triple sec. I think the added sweet depends on what wine you start with. Always sweeten to taste, which means you actually have to taste it before you serve it, and remember you can always add more but not take away. I sweeten after it has sat for a bit. 

best served cold on a hot day

Red Sangria

Two Bottles of Fruity Red Wine* 

1 cup brandy

1 cup fresh squeezed OJ

1-2 tbs sugar, to taste

1 apple, chopped into 1/2 in pieces

1 orange, chopped into 1/2 in pieces

1 lemon, sliced into thin 1/2 circles

1 lime, sliced into thin 1/2 circles

1-2 shots triple sec, to taste 


Chop up all the fruit and put it in the bottom of a large pitcher. 

Add the wine, brandy, OJ, sugar and stir until sugar is dissolved. Allow the sangria to sit in the fridge for 3-4 hours, and taste it for sweetness/booziness. Add sugar by the tbs, or shots of triple sec to taste, stirring well and tasting in between. Let the sangria sit for 3-4 more hours. If doing overnight, just try the sangria before serving for sweetness (or when you wake up at 8 am, whatever your palette fancies in the am).  Serve over ice with a splash of club soda (optional). 

*I don't feel you need to use "good" wine for sangria.  If something tastes "good enough" straight out of the bottle, it's going to taste "great" once you add all the fruit and brandy. I generally use a combination of Cabernet, Merlot, and maybe even Malbec. In fact, I really just use whatever is one sale, which is often of the Barefoot/Jacob's Creek/Gallo variety. 

Buttermilk Pancakes

Pancakes are an easy breakfast food to develop a love-hate relationship with. For one, the first couple times you make them, you are bound to attempt to flip them too early.  Then, after you have rearranged the batter and splatter into coherent blobs, you will likely cook them for too long on the other side, and they will then be burnt. It is also easy to skimp on the butter and oil that should be applied to the pan LIBERALLY, resulting in a residual mess that burns to a char and stick to the final batches mercilessly.

Most recent batch of blueberry guys

However, once you get the hang of it, and find a pancake recipe you like, things get easier. Confident in your mastery of the hot stack, you may even be tempted to venture into the realm of healthy pancakes---made from scratch! After mastering that mix that was in your Christmas stocking, and had a nightmare about the nutrition label, you become obsessed with adding protein, cutting a couple grams of fat, and infusing some whole grains.  Why not substitute the eggs with low-fat yogurt? Gluten-free flour blend? Sure!

Healthy(ish) pumpkin pancakes

After forcing your hung-over body to suffer through a few Sunday morning rounds of gummy, lackluster, healthy pancakes, you finally sober up and reach for your copy of Joy of Cooking.  The page with the recipe for Buttermilk Pancakes calls your name and begs for batter stains and grease spots.   Exhausted, and hungry, you collapse into its arms. Voila. It’s love.

Buttermilk pancakes

I believe the key to great pancakes is using a combination of oil and butter to fry them in, and lots of it. If you are worried about fat, don’t eat these every weekend, and for God’s sake don’t put more butter on them when you add syrup!  

I was inspired to make these most recently when S and C were describing a breakfast they had down the shore at Gilchrist’s in Atlantic City. Diner/breakfast spot pancakes are such a treat. They are light and fluffy, yet crisp around the edges. They are never under cooked,  and have a nice brown on them that provides a warm, toasty edge.  A good diner is always going to have a competitive advantage with a huge flat top to cook, grease supplies, and the perennial all-star that has been flipping flapjacks every morning for 30 years, but you can do pretty well for yourself at home and avoid a 2 hour wait.

Best breakfast spot in Margate

Buttermilk Pancakes (adapted from Joy of Cooking) 4 hearty servings

Lots of butter and canola oil for frying

2 ¼ cups of flour

4 ½ tbs sugar

1 ½ tsp baking powder

¾ tsp of baking soda

1 ½ tsp salt

2 ¼ cups of buttermilk

4 ½ tbs butter, melted

3 eggs

1 tsp vanilla extract

Have the butter cut up into tabs and the oil available near to where you are frying. I use about 1 tbs butter to a tbs of oil per batch (although I don’t always need to re-up between batches). Use your judgment, just don’t be stingy.

Mix all the dry ingredients together in a large bowl.  Lightly beat the eggs in the bottom of another, and mix in the rest of the wet ingredients, until just combined. Add the wet ingredients to the dry, and again, mix until just combined. 

Heat the butter and the oil over med-high heat in the skillet. Once it’s melted, and foaming just a bit, add the batter in ¼ cup portions. Cook on one side until bubbles form on the surface, and the edges have browned a little. Watch the heat, and before you flip, you may consider lowering it to medium.

Cook through on the second side, which will likely have a shorter cooking time than the first. Make sure you manage the temperature of the pan. I generally alternate between medium and medium high heat.

Serve sprinkled with powdered sugar or warm maple syrup.