Clam Spaghetti

When I think of clam spaghetti, I don’t think of 6-8 clams neatly arranged a delicate bed of pasta with a gentle sprinkle of chopped parsley and red pepper flakes.  I think of sitting at the kid’s table in my Auntie Clare’s basement, a big plate of pasta, a pile of chopped clams swimming in butter, white wine, and parsley, with a heaping spoonful of Reggiano cheese on top.  To me, clam spaghetti is comfort food, a Superior Ave special that never fails to leave me with a fully belly and gunning for seconds, or thirds.

Every once in a while I find myself at an Italian restaurant and I see Spaghetti Alle Vongole on the menu. Nostalgic for a plate of Auntie Clare’s buttery, clammy-goodness, I’ll order it. Time after time, I find myself disappointed. I’m sorry, pretty as those clam shells are, I’d rather have the chopped, canned ones that Auntie uses. A couple times, the clams have been gritty-blech. The clam to pasta ratio is always completely out of whack, too. I want Clam Spaghetti, not a pound of spaghetti with a brief, clam opener. Sure, each plate ends with the delectable sauce to be sopped up by pieces of bread, always something to look forward to, but the main event just never seems to measure up. 

I decided to make Clam Spaghetti for S and me last night because I think we were both in the mood for/of need of some comfort food. I have been eating far too many bowls of cereal and hummus/peanut butter/carrot dinners, so it was time to cook.  S had talked about delicious smoked clams they concocted the previous weekend at the shore so I had clams and seafood on my mind. Grilling a piece of fish seemed boring and pasta is such a treat—I knew clam spaghetti would hit the spot.

Pretty Sauce

I was semi-concerned about finding canned clams at my usual haunts on my walk home from the gym. I didn’t think Whole Foods would have them, but I was pretty sure Dibruno might. I ran some recon at lunch and DiBruno did not have canned, I believe they were out of stock, but they DID have FRESH chopped clams.  I told the counter attendant I would be back.  Post-gym I picked up a pound of the chopped clams, some fresh linguine, and green onion. As disturbing as reading the register when checking out at DiBruno can be at times, the comfort theme (ie. convenience shopping) began then and there---worth it.

Fresh chopped clams!

Auntie Clare sent me her general recipe a while back. I have made it a few times since, and each time had slightly different results. I was curious to see how the fresh clams would play out in terms of adding to the flavor.  I wanted to keep it light, too.  Less buttery-goodness--- more seafood, wine, lemony-goodness!

I think the fresh clams really made this dish. We could taste the ocean.  Although I actually like the texture of the canned clams, the fresh clams were meaty and juicy and on a different level. Also, I am completely aware a real Italian would NEVER add cheese to seafood, but I just had to do it. I took a couple bites without the cheese, and they were delicious, but I threw on some handfuls of Pecorino Roman after that in honor of Auntie Clare. S, a REAL Italian, tried it with the cheese and said she enjoyed it, but it didn't need it.  Using fresh pasta, a treat, also makes a big difference. It was so light, and it soaks up the sauce in a way dry pasta wouldn't quite be able to.

Fresh pasta treat

Clammy comfort (oxymoron?)

Clam Spaghetti makes 2 hearty main course servings

1 lb fresh, chopped clams

3 tbs of butter

3 tbs of olive oil

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 tsp red pepper flakes

4 green onions, chopped (I used the whole onion, all white and green parts)

¾ cup white wine

1 cup chicken stock

~ ½ cup clam broth (I just used all the liquid that the clams were in)

Juice of one lemon

½ cup chopped parsley

Salt and pepper to taste

Fresh Spaghetti or Linguine

Drain the clams and preserve the liquid to use in the sauce. Heat 2 tbs of butter and all of the oil over med-high heat. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and allow to sauté for about a minute, careful not to burn the garlic--doing this will allow the pepper to infuse the oil and give the dish the heat it needs later.

Add the chopped green onion and sauté for 2-3 minutes until soft, and season with salt and pepper. Add the wine, the stock, the clam broth, and lemon juice and bring to a simmer.  Allow the liquid to reduce by about half, and taste it for flavor.  I often add another splash of wine or chicken stock at this point.  If the clam flavor is way too strong for you, add the chicken stock.  If you think it needs a bit more acidity, add the wine.  My Auntie says, “it will taste strong, but it works once you add the clams”. 

Add the clams and chopped parsley and let it cook for about 2 minutes. Do not overcook.  Taste the sauce again.  Like I added the chicken broth or wine earlier, I sometimes find at this point it needs the other tbs of butter or a bit more lemon juice at this point. The butter will add creaminess and the lemon sharpens the flavor.

Serve over pasta and don’t hesitate to put a bowl of grated Parmesan or Romano on the table (you never know who might like it).  

PS. Make sure you have  some crusty bread around for the sauce!